Terra Madre Salone del Gusto

Terra Madre Salone del Gusto is an international food and agricultural event founded to connect regional food sovereignty movements, artisanal producers, and culinary institutions, held in Turin, Piedmont, Italy. Conceived by Slow Food and partnered with municipal and provincial authorities including the City of Turin and Province of Turin, the event brings together delegates from FAO, grassroots networks, and institutions such as the University of Gastronomic Sciences, promoting biodiversity, culinary heritage, and sustainable practices across continents like Europe, Africa, Asia, North America, South America, and Oceania. Major cultural figures, policy makers, and representatives from organizations including the United Nations, World Bank, European Union, OECD, and NGOs often attend alongside chefs associated with institutions like Le Cordon Bleu, Institut Paul Bocuse, and restaurants such as Osteria Francescana, El Bulli, Noma, and The Fat Duck.

History

The event originated from initiatives led by Carlo Petrini and Slow Food in response to globalization trends discussed at forums like the World Trade Organization meetings and debates involving NAFTA, the Common Agricultural Policy, and the GATT rounds. Early editions in the 1990s and 2000s featured collaborations with entities including the European Commission, UNESCO, IFAD, and academic partners such as the University of Turin and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Terra Madre Salone del Gusto evolved alongside contemporaneous gatherings like the World Economic Forum food discussions, the Rio Earth Summit follow-ups, and movements emerging from conferences such as the Copenhagen Climate Summit and UNFCCC negotiations. Over successive editions, the program expanded to encompass networks formed by groups such as Slow Food Youth Network, Via Campesina, and links to cultural projects supported by the Fondazione Slow Food per la Biodiversità and foundations like the Cariplo Foundation.

Organization and Objectives

Organized principally by Slow Food with institutional partnerships including the Municipality of Turin, the event is coordinated with academic stakeholders like the University of Gastronomic Sciences and research centers such as the NRDC and WWF offices in Europe. Objectives align with policy frameworks advanced by FAO initiatives on biodiversity and food systems, sustainable projects supported by the European Food Safety Authority dialogues, and advocacy seen in campaigns by Greenpeace and Friends of the Earth. The agenda emphasizes links between producers, presided over by cooperatives modeled after Confédération paysanne, networks like Slow Food Ark of Taste, and procurement debates involving institutions such as UNICEF and WHO. Governance includes advisory boards with representatives from cultural institutions like the Fondazione Torino Musei, funders including Fondazione CRT, and partnerships with media outlets such as La Stampa, Corriere della Sera, and international broadcasters like BBC and Al Jazeera.

Event Format and Programs

Program elements mirror formats used at global exhibitions like Expo Milano and festivals such as Salone del Mobile: trade pavilions, thematic fora, and tasting sessions. Core components include the Salone del Gusto exhibition halls, Terra Madre networks' meetings modeled on assemblies like COP side events, and seminars featuring chefs from institutions like Alinea, Mugaritz, D.O.M., and Per Se. Educational programs draw on curricula similar to those at the Culinary Institute of America and the Scuola di Cucina Italiana, and workshops partner with organizations such as Slow Food Youth Network and NGOs like Oxfam and CARE International. Special initiatives have included markets showcasing products listed in the Slow Food Ark of Taste, biodiversity labs run with researchers from the Italian National Research Council and demonstration kitchens involving culinary schools like Ecole Ferrandi.

Participants and Exhibitors

Participants span a wide spectrum: small-scale producers from networks like Via Campesina and regional consortia including Consorzio del Parmigiano-Reggiano, alongside multinational delegations from agencies such as FAO, UNESCO, and IFAD. Exhibitors have included artisanal makers of products tied to protected names like Parmigiano-Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, Champagne, Tequila, and regional specialties from territories including Sicily, Piedmont, Basilicata, Catalonia, Provence, Andalusia, Brittany, Bavaria, Bayern, Ile-de-France, Yucatán, Quebec, and Newfoundland and Labrador. Culinary personalities, restaurateurs, and academics from institutions such as Harvard University, Wageningen University, University of California, Davis, and Sciences Po have delivered talks; participation also draws corporations, cooperatives, and trade bodies like Confagricoltura, Coldiretti, Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity, and publishing partners including Einaudi and Penguin Random House.

Impact and Criticism

The event has influenced policy discussions linked to FAO campaigns and municipal procurement reforms in cities like Turin and Bologna, and has been cited in studies from institutions such as University of Gastronomic Sciences and think tanks like IPES-Food and Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy. Critics, including commentators in The Guardian and The New York Times, and analysts from Friends of the Earth and Transparency International, have raised concerns about commercialization, representation of smallholders versus corporate exhibitors, and the influence of sponsorships involving corporations associated with Nestlé, Cargill, Syngenta, and Monsanto debates. Academic critiques appearing in journals tied to Oxford University Press and Cambridge University Press have examined tensions between heritage rhetoric and market dynamics, while activist groups such as Via Campesina and Campagna Amica have both partnered and protested across editions. Proponents argue the event catalyzes networks that support initiatives like the Slow Food Ark of Taste and procurement innovations similar to those promoted by Food Policy Councils and municipal programs in Bologna, Manchester, and Barcelona.

Category:Food festivals