WHO'S NEXT

WHO'S NEXT

WHO'S NEXT is a recurring Paris-based trade show and cultural event that brings together designers, buyers, journalists, and performers for exhibitions, runway shows, and industry networking. Founded in the late 20th century, the event intersects with fashion weeks, retail fairs, and cultural festivals, attracting attendees from across Europe and beyond. It features collaborations with magazines, institutions, and brands and has influenced exhibition practices and market trends in Paris, Milan, London, and New York.

Overview

WHO'S NEXT functions as a marketplace and showcase for ready-to-wear designers, emerging brands, and established maisons, positioned within the calendar of Paris Fashion Week, Pitti Immagine, Milan Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, and New York Fashion Week. Exhibitors have included ateliers, maisons, and startups that later exhibited at Maison&Objet, Tranoi, Première Vision, and Coterie. Buyers and press from outlets such as Vogue (magazine), Harper's Bazaar, Elle (magazine), GQ (magazine), and WWD attend, alongside representatives from department stores like Galeries Lafayette, Printemps (department store), Selfridges, Harrods, and Nordstrom. The event often collaborates with cultural institutions including Palais de Tokyo, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Centre Pompidou, and organizations such as Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, and IFM (Institut Français de la Mode).

History and Origin

WHO'S NEXT emerged in the 1980s amid the expansion of seasonal trade fairs that followed the precedents set by Pitti Immagine Uomo, Salon International de la Haute Couture, and the global growth of fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, London, and New York City. Early editions positioned Parisian and European designers alongside international exhibitors from Japan, South Korea, United States, and Brazil. Organizers worked with publishing houses and media outlets such as Conde Nast, Hearst Communications, Reed Exhibitions, and agencies tied to events like Vogue Talents and collaborations with photographers from Magnum Photos, editors from i-D (magazine), and stylists associated with Jean-Paul Gaultier and Hedi Slimane. Over decades, WHO'S NEXT adapted to digital disruptions linked to platforms like Instagram, Farfetch, Net-a-Porter, and ASOS (company), while maintaining ties with wholesale networks and buying groups.

Gameplay and Structure

Structured as a combination of exhibition halls, curated showrooms, and runway schedules, WHO'S NEXT organizes participants into sections analogous to curatorial platforms such as Tranoi and Première Vision. The event features pop-up spaces like those seen at Colette (store), thematic avenues similar to Canal Saint-Martin market activations, and presentation formats informed by producers from Shanghai International Fashion Week, Tokyo Fashion Week, and Seoul Fashion Week. Programming often includes panels with editors from Vogue Italia, buyers from Bergdorf Goodman, and entrepreneurs connected to LVMH, Kering, and Richemont. Logistics and venue partnerships have involved operators of sites like Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte, Le Bourget Exhibition Center, and municipal partnerships with Mairie de Paris.

Cultural Impact and Criticism

WHO'S NEXT has been credited with launching careers of designers who later collaborated with houses such as Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Balenciaga, and Saint Laurent (brand), and with influencing retail assortments at chains like Zara, H&M, and Uniqlo. Critics and commentators from outlets like The New York Times, The Guardian, Le Monde, and Business of Fashion have debated its role in commercializing creativity versus supporting avant-garde practice championed by figures such as Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, and Comme des Garçons. Environmental organizations and campaigns associated with Fashion Revolution and Greenpeace have raised concerns about sustainability practices tied to trade fairs, while labor advocates connected to Clean Clothes Campaign have critiqued production chains represented by exhibitors. Debates also reference digital shifts led by Amazon (company), Alibaba Group, and marketplace platforms reshaping wholesale behaviors.

Notable Editions and Variations

Prominent editions of WHO'S NEXT featured curated collaborations with magazines like Numero (magazine), guest directories produced in partnership with Dazed (magazine), and special projects that showcased designers alongside craft institutions such as Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Central Saint Martins, and Royal College of Art. Spin-offs and parallel events have included formats resembling Copenhagen Fashion Summit, Berlin Fashion Week, and trade show variants like Bread & Butter and Agenda (trade show). Special segments have highlighted streetwear influenced by labels tied to Supreme (brand), Off-White, and A Bathing Ape, as well as sustainable portfolios showcased in alignment with initiatives from Ellen MacArthur Foundation and certification bodies like Global Organic Textile Standard.

Category:Fashion trade fairs