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Settimana della Moda

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Settimana della Moda
NameSettimana della Moda
StatusActive
GenreFashion week
FrequencyBiannual
LocationMilan; Florence; Rome
First1958
OrganizerCamera Nazionale della Moda Italiana; Pitti Immagine
AttendanceInternational buyers; press; celebrities
WebsiteCamera Nazionale della Moda Italiana

Settimana della Moda is the Italian term for the series of biannual fashion weeks held primarily in Milan with complementary events in Florence and Rome that showcase seasonal womenswear, menswear, haute couture, accessories, and emerging talent. It functions as a central node in the global fashion calendar, connecting runway presentations, showrooms, presentations, and trade fairs and bringing together designers, models, editors, retailers, and celebrities. The weeks influence retail buying, editorial agendas, and cultural trends across Europe, North America, and Asia through a dense schedule of runway shows, presentations, and related events.

History

The origins trace to postwar Italy and early exhibitions at the Palazzo Pitti and La Rinascente department store, influenced by founders and patrons such as Giovanni Battista Giorgini, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior and institutions like Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Federazione della Moda Italiana. Throughout the 1960s and 1970s designers including Giorgio Armani, Guccio Gucci, Miuccia Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Roberto Cavalli used the platform to internationalize Italian fashion alongside houses like Fendi, Versace, Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana, and Valentino Garavani. During the 1980s and 1990s luminaries such as Gianni Versace, Donatella Versace, Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, and John Galliano intersected with Italian weeks as part of a broader global circuit including Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week, and Milan Fashion Week. The 2000s and 2010s saw consolidation under trade shows like Pitti Immagine Uomo, investment from conglomerates including Kering, LVMH, Prada Group, and Campari Group, and digital expansion tied to platforms like Vogue Italia, WWD, Business of Fashion, and broadcasters such as RAI and Sky Italia.

Organization and Schedule

Settimana della Moda is organized seasonally with autumn/winter and spring/summer editions coordinated by bodies like Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, municipal authorities of Milan, and venues including Teatro alla Scala, Palazzo Reale, Armani/Silos, and Triennale Milano. The schedule aligns with the international ready-to-wear calendar alongside events such as Pitti Uomo, AltaRoma, Milan Men's Fashion Week, and trade fairs like MICAM, MIPEL, and THEONE Milano. Calendar planning involves show producers, casting agencies including IMG Models, Elite Model Management, and Women Management, and logistics partners such as EFM and DHL, with buyers from retailers like Harrods, Selfridges, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Seibu, and Galeries Lafayette attending showroom appointments and appointments coordinated through platforms like Fashion GPS.

Major Events and Shows

Runway highlights historically include signature presentations by Giorgio Armani, Prada, Gucci, Versace, Valentino, Fendi, and Dolce & Gabbana, alongside menswear showcases at Milan Men's Fashion Week and couture-influenced events at venues such as Palazzo Serbelloni and Villa Necchi Campiglio. Special projects and collaborations have featured artists and institutions like Salvador Dalí, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Gareth Pugh, Hussein Chalayan, Riccardo Tisci, Alessandro Michele, Donatella Versace, and cultural partners such as La Scala, Fondazione Prada, Triennale Milano, and MAXXI. Trade events and presentations include Pitti Immagine Bimbo, White Milano, CasaModa, and emerging designer showcases organized by incubators such as Acceleratore Moda and educational institutions like Istituto Marangoni, Polimoda, and Domus Academy.

Notable Designers and Brands

Prominent Italian houses integral to the weeks include Giorgio Armani, Prada, Gucci, Versace, Valentino, Fendi, Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo, Max Mara, Moschino, Marni, Ermanno Scervino, Roberto Cavalli, Alviero Martini, Annamaria Cammilli, and Brunello Cucinelli. International designers who present or influence programming include Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Helmut Lang, Riccardo Tisci, Phoebe Philo, Riccardo Tisci, Nigo, Virgil Abloh, Demna Gvasalia, and Raf Simons. Retailers and conglomerates involved include Kering, LVMH, Prada Group, OTB Group, Ermenegildo Zegna, Salvatore Ferragamo Group, and private equity investors like Permira.

Economic and Cultural Impact

Settimana della Moda generates substantial economic activity through showroom orders, export growth, tourism, and hospitality, impacting institutions such as Comune di Milano, Regione Lombardia, Camera di Commercio di Milano, and service sectors including Eataly-linked hospitality and luxury hospitality brands. The events drive cultural production linking museums and archives like Fondazione Museo del Tessuto, Museo della Moda e del Costume, Fondazione Prada, Triennale Milano, and academic programs at Università degli Studi di Milano, Bocconi University, and Politecnico di Milano. The weeks also affect ancillary industries tied to stages, production houses like Fabrica, casting agencies, and technology partners such as YouTube, Instagram, TikTok, Vogue, and WWD.

Media Coverage and Publicity

Coverage is extensive across print and digital outlets including Vogue Italia, Vogue US, Vogue UK, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, WWD, The Business of Fashion, Corriere della Sera, La Repubblica, Il Sole 24 Ore, RAI, Sky TG24, and international broadcasters and platforms like CNN, BBC, The New York Times, The Guardian, Der Spiegel, Le Monde, NHK, Sina Weibo, Tencent, and WeChat. Influencers, celebrities, and red-carpet attendees from Hollywood and Bollywood amplify visibility with attendees including actors, musicians, and athletes contracted via agencies like CAA, WME, and UTA. Live streaming, lookbooks, street style coverage, and editorial shoots connect with archives and publications such as Condé Nast, Hearst Communications, Reed Exhibitions, and independent fashion blogs.

Criticisms and Controversies

Critiques have targeted sustainability practices involving suppliers and manufacturers tied to Prato and Tuscany textile districts, labor issues linked to subcontractors, intellectual property disputes involving brands and ateliers, and commercialization concerns raised by activists and NGOs such as Greenpeace, Amnesty International, and Fashion Revolution. Controversial moments involved disputes over casting and diversity, protests against brands by groups aligned with Extinction Rebellion and Black Lives Matter, and legal disputes in courts including Tribunale di Milano and arbitration panels. Debates also concern the influence of conglomerates like Kering and LVMH on creative independence and allegations of greenwashing highlighted by investigative journalism in outlets such as The Guardian, New York Times, Il Sole 24 Ore, and Bloomberg.

Category:Fashion events