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Jewel

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Jewel
NameJewel

Jewel Jewel is a multifaceted term primarily associated with ornamental objects crafted for personal adornment and status, spanning historical, cultural, artistic, and scientific domains. These items appear across societies linked to royalty, religion, commerce, and personal identity, intersecting with personalities, institutions, and events that shaped their production, display, and regulation. The study of jewels involves art history, archaeology, mineralogy, and international trade, connecting museums, auction houses, and legal frameworks.

Etymology and Definition

The word derives from Old French and Latin roots used in medieval inventories recorded in archives of Notre-Dame de Paris and royal treasuries such as the Treasury of the Basilica of Saint-Denis, appearing alongside references to regalia of the Capetian dynasty, House of Valois, and treasure lists compiled under rulers like Louis IX of France. Definitions in lexicons from the Oxford English Dictionary and glossaries used by curators at the Victoria and Albert Museum distinguish jewels from adornments referenced in inventories of the British Museum and catalogues of the Hermitage Museum by specifying precious materials, craftsmanship, and function in court ceremonies associated with courts like the Habsburg Monarchy and the Ottoman Empire.

Types and Materials

Jewel types include crowns, diadems, necklaces, brooches, rings, and reliquaries, with examples documented in collections at the Tower of London, Topkapi Palace, and the Louvre Museum. Materials range from gemstones such as diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, and pearl to metals like gold, silver, and platinum, and organic substances like amber, coral, and ivory. Period styles reference movements and workshops tied to the Renaissance, Baroque, Art Nouveau, and makers such as the firm of Cartier, houses like Tiffany & Co., and jeweled commissions for figures including Queen Victoria and Nicholas II of Russia.

History and Cultural Significance

Jewels have signified sovereignty, religious devotion, and social stratification in contexts such as coronations of the Holy Roman Empire, liturgical vestments of the Catholic Church, and funerary assemblages uncovered in sites like Tutankhamun's tomb and Sutton Hoo. Trade routes such as the Silk Road, the Trans-Saharan trade, and maritime networks used by the Portuguese Empire and Dutch East India Company facilitated the movement of gemstones to centers like Golconda, Mysore, and Colombo. Patronage by dynasties including the Mughal Empire and the Medici family spurred innovations recorded in inventories tied to the Palazzo Pitti and the Rijksmuseum, while modern cultural practices have adapted jewels into popular culture via celebrities represented by agencies and events like the Met Gala and auctions at Sotheby's and Christie's.

Design, Cutting, and Setting

Design traditions evolved in workshops associated with guilds such as the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths and ateliers like Fabergé, balancing aesthetics, ergonomics, and symbolism found in commissions for institutions like the Vatican Museums. Cutting techniques progressed from table cuts and rose cuts to standards such as the brilliant cut promoted by lapidaries in Antwerp and innovations patented in the nineteenth century in centers like Idar-Oberstein. Settings—prong, bezel, pavé—are documented in technical manuals and exemplified by pieces preserved at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Hermitage Museum, reflecting practices taught at institutions such as the Gemological Institute of America and the Birmingham School of Jewellery.

Science and Gemology

Gemology integrates mineralogical classification, crystallography, and spectroscopic analysis performed in laboratories at the Gemological Institute of America, the Russian Gem Testing Laboratory, and university departments at Harvard University and the University of Cambridge. Tools such as refractometers, polariscopes, and Raman spectrometers help distinguish natural gems from synthetics produced by methods patented by firms and researchers in centers like Bell Labs and industrial operations in Czechoslovakia and Brazil. Studies in provenance use isotopic analysis and archival documentation comparable to research at the Smithsonian Institution and conservation science at the Getty Conservation Institute.

Trade, Industry, and Certification

The diamond and gemstone trade operates through exchanges and clusters in cities including Antwerp, Mumbai, Hong Kong, Tel Aviv, and New York City, regulated by bodies such as the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and standards propagated by the World Diamond Council and grading laboratories like the Gemological Institute of America and the International Gemological Institute. Auction houses—Sotheby's and Christie's—and retailers such as Cartier and Tiffany & Co. mediate markets influenced by legislation enacted in parliaments like the United Kingdom Parliament and policy initiatives from organizations including the United Nations regarding conflict resources and sanctions.

Notable Jewels and Collections

Renowned pieces and collections include the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom at the Tower of London, the Koh-i-Noor historically associated with the British Crown, the imperial regalia preserved in the Austrian Imperial Treasury, the jeweled eggs by Peter Carl Fabergé in collections like the Fabergé Museum in Saint Petersburg, and the jewels of the Hohenzollern and Romanov dynasties. Museum displays and private collections held by institutions such as the Victoria and Albert Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and collections sold at Christie's illustrate provenance research and curatorial practices developed by scholars connected to universities like Oxford University and Columbia University.

Category:Jewellery