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| Élisabeth Revol | |
|---|---|
| Name | Élisabeth Revol |
| Birth date | 1979 |
| Birth place | France |
| Occupation | Mountaineer, guide |
| Nationality | French |
Élisabeth Revol is a French high-altitude mountaineer and mountain guide known for alpine-style ascents on eight-thousanders and for surviving a high-profile rescue on Nanga Parbat in 2018. She has climbed technical routes in the Alps, the Karakoram, and the Himalayas, and has been involved with international rescue and mountaineering organizations, expedition teams, and alpine publications.
Revol was born in France and grew up near the Alps, where early exposure to Mont Blanc, Chamonix, Aiguilles Rouges, Massif des Écrins, and the Vanoise National Park fostered an interest in climbing and skiing. She trained in alpine techniques and worked with institutions such as École Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme, Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, Guide de Haute Montagne, and local clubs tied to Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne and the Conseil National des Activités Physiques et Sportives. Revol completed technical courses involving ropework, glaciology, and high-altitude medicine at centers associated with Université Grenoble Alpes, Institut National du Sport, de l'Expertise et de la Performance, and regional mountaineering schools connected to Haute-Savoie institutions.
Revol developed a reputation for fast, light alpine-style ascents and for guiding international clients on complex routes in the Alps, the Himalayas, and the Karakoram. She partnered with climbers from Poland, Italy, United Kingdom, Russia, and Spain and joined expeditions organized by commercial operators and nonprofit groups such as Alpine Club (UK), Club Alpin Français, and mountaineering teams linked to Patagonia (company), The North Face, and Petzl. Her climbing résumé includes alpine routes on Aconcagua, Denali, Ama Dablam, Gasherbrum I, and Broad Peak and technical ascents on faces associated with Matterhorn, Eiger, and Grandes Jorasses. She collaborated with guides and climbers including Ueli Steck, Simone Moro, Adam Bielecki, Krzysztof Wielicki, and Éric Escoffier on mixed rock-ice expeditions.
In January 2018 Revol joined an expedition on Nanga Parbat in the Karakoram, attempting a winter ascent on the Rupal Face with Polish climber Tomasz Mackiewicz. During the ascent both suffered severe altitude-related injuries; Mackiewicz developed fatal frostbite and high-altitude pulmonary and cerebral complications while Revol attempted to descend. The incident triggered an international rescue involving Krzysztof Wielicki, Adam Bielecki, and a Polish rescue team flying from K2 Base Camp and Skardu. Helicopter support from Pakistan Army and coordination with Pakistan Air Force units, as well as logistical aid from Government of Pakistan and local Balti rescuers, played roles in the operation. Revol was located and retrieved by a rope-access rescue led by the Polish climbers on the Kinshofer technique rope systems and later evacuated to medical facilities in Skardu and Islamabad for treatment of severe frostbite and hypoxia. The rescue sparked international debate involving International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation, Polish Mountaineering Association, French Alpine Club, and media outlets such as BBC News, The Guardian, and Le Monde about high-altitude rescue responsibilities and expedition ethics.
Revol has completed first ascents and new routes as well as rapid alpine-style summits on peaks like Nuptse, Shishapangma, Manaslu, and Makalu, and she claimed ascents of Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak in challenging conditions. She has guided technical climbs on Dent Blanche, Aiguille du Dru, and Mont Maudit and made winter attempts in ranges that include Hindukush and Pamir Mountains. Revol contributed accounts to mountaineering journals such as American Alpine Journal, Alpinist (magazine), and La Montagne et Alpinisme, and has collaborated on documentaries and films with producers linked to ARTE, National Geographic, and Red Bull Media House.
Revol is active in promoting mountain safety, high-altitude medicine, and women's participation in technical climbing, partnering with organizations such as Women in Mountaineering, French Red Cross, and alpine safety initiatives affiliated with World Health Organization mountain health programs. She participates in educational events at institutions like Université Savoie Mont Blanc and supports local mountain communities in Gilgit-Baltistan and Kashmir through partnerships with nongovernmental groups tied to UNICEF and regional development projects. Revol has spoken publicly about risk management, rescue ethics, and the impact of climate change on glaciers, engaging with scientific bodies such as IPCC-related networks and glaciology researchers at Université Grenoble Alpes.
For her climbing and her survival of the Nanga Parbat incident, Revol received attention from mountaineering institutions and media, with acknowledgments from Club Alpin Français, Alpine Club (UK), and recognition in lists by National Geographic and Outside (magazine). She has been invited to speak at events organized by International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation and honored in regional awards in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes and by mountaineering festivals such as Piolets d'Or-affiliated gatherings and film festivals including Banff Mountain Film Festival.
Category:French mountain climbers Category:Female climbers Category:1979 births Category:Living people