Mondeuse

Mondeuse. A dark-skinned grape variety historically associated with the French Alps, particularly the Savoie and Bugey regions. It produces deeply colored, tannic red wines with distinctive peppery and spicy characteristics, often compared to Syrah. Once nearly extinct, it has experienced a modest revival among vignerons interested in preserving heirloom varieties and expressing terroir.

Description and characteristics

The vine is moderately vigorous and produces medium-sized, compact clusters of thick-skinned berries. It is a late-ripening variety, requiring a long growing season and warm sites to achieve full phenolic ripeness. Wines made from Mondeuse are notable for their deep ruby to violet hue, high acidity, and robust, grippy tannins. The aroma profile often features pronounced notes of black pepper, spice, red fruits like sour cherry and raspberry, and sometimes floral or gamey undertones. Its structural similarity to Syrah from the Northern Rhône is frequently noted, though it typically displays a brighter acid profile.

History and origins

Long cultivated in eastern France, Mondeuse is considered a traditional variety of Savoie. DNA profiling conducted at the University of California, Davis has revealed it to be a parent of Syrah, making it a grandparent of many modern varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon. For centuries, it was a staple in the vineyards around Lac du Bourget and the Combe de Savoie. Its cultivation declined sharply after the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, as it was often replaced with higher-yielding varieties like Gamay or Pinot noir. The work of ampelographers like Pierre Galet and local advocates in the late 20th century helped prevent its disappearance.

Viticulture and winemaking

In the vineyard, Mondeuse is susceptible to coulure and requires careful site selection on well-drained, south-facing slopes, often on limestone and clay soils known as *molasse*. It is typically trained using the Guyot system. In the winery, due to its high tannin and color potential, winemakers may employ techniques like cold soaking or controlled maceration to manage extraction. While some producers use stainless steel for a fresher style, others utilize oak barrels, including large foudres from Austria or Germany, to soften tannins and add complexity. A small amount of sparkling red wine, known as *Mondeuse mousseux*, is also produced using the méthode traditionnelle.

Wine regions

Its primary region remains Savoie, where it is a key component of the Vin de Savoie and Bugey AOCs, particularly in crus like Arbin and Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte. In Switzerland, it is grown in Valais under the name *Grosse Syrah*. Outside Europe, experimental plantings exist in Australia, notably in the King Valley and Heathcote regions, and in California, within Santa Cruz Mountains AVAs and San Luis Obispo County. In these New World regions, it is often championed by winemakers focused on Rhône varieties.

Synonyms and confusion with other grapes

Mondeuse has been historically confused with several other varieties. It is **not** the same as the pale-skinned Mondeuse Blanche, a distinct variety from Savoie. In Switzerland, the true Mondeuse Noir is called *Grosse Syrah* or *Savoyardin*, while a different, unrelated grape is known as *Petite Syrah*. Other synonyms include *Refosco* (leading to confusion with the Friuli-Venezia Giulia variety) and *Parce*. These naming errors were common before the advent of modern ampelography and DNA analysis, which have now clearly differentiated it from Durif (often called Petite Sirah in California) and the Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso of Italy.

Category:Red wine grape varieties Category:Wine grapes of France