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Grand Galibier

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Parent: Briançonnais Hop 4
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Grand Galibier
NameGrand Galibier
Photo captionThe north face of Grand Galibier
Elevation m3228
Prominence m842
ListingAlpine three-thousanders
LocationHautes-Alpes / Savoie, France
RangeMassif des Cerces, Dauphiné Alps
Coordinates45, 03, 45, N...
First ascent1878 by William Auguste Coolidge with guides Christian Almer and Ulrich Almer
Easiest routeScramble

Grand Galibier. It is a prominent mountain in the Dauphiné Alps of southeastern France, forming a significant part of the Massif des Cerces. With an elevation of 3,228 meters, it is a notable Alpine three-thousander and a defining landmark on the border between the departments of Hautes-Alpes and Savoie. The peak offers commanding views of neighboring summits like Aiguille de Chambeyron and Mont Thabor, and its challenging north face is a classic objective for alpinists.

Geography

Grand Galibier is situated within the Écrins National Park, near the historic Col du Galibier pass, a famous climb in the Tour de France. The mountain's massif forms the watershed between the Romanche and Arc river valleys, influencing the hydrology of the region. Its slopes give rise to several glaciers, including the Glacier de la Lavey, and overlook the reservoirs of the Grand'Maison Dam complex. The summit provides a panoramic vista encompassing peaks from the Écrins massif to the Vanoise National Park.

Geology

The mountain is primarily composed of sedimentary rocks from the Mesozoic era, notably limestone and dolomite, which were uplifted during the Alpine orogeny. This geological structure is part of the Briançonnais zone, a distinct microcontinent accreted during the formation of the Alps. The area exhibits classic glacial geomorphology, with cirques such as Cirque de la Lavey and sharp arêtes carved by Pleistocene ice ages. These processes have created the steep faces and rugged terrain that define the peak's character.

Climbing history

The first recorded ascent was achieved in 1878 by the prolific alpinist William Auguste Coolidge, accompanied by the famed guides Christian Almer and Ulrich Almer. This ascent followed the peak's survey during the great cartographic projects of the French Alpine Club. The challenging north face was first climbed in 1935 by Pierre Allain and Raymond Leininger, a significant step in the development of modern mixed climbing techniques in the Dauphiné Alps. The mountain has since been the scene of numerous notable ascents documented in journals like *Alpinisme* and *La Montagne*.

Routes

The normal route ascends from the Col du Lautaret, involving a long scramble over the south ridge, a popular outing for experienced hikers. The classic north face route, first ascended by Pierre Allain, presents a sustained UIAA grade IV climb on limestone and mixed terrain, requiring technical ice axes in early season. Other significant lines include the east ridge, a sharp arête offering exposed climbing, and the winter ascent of the north couloir, a serious undertaking often compared to routes in the Écrins or Mont Blanc massif. All routes require careful navigation and an awareness of objective hazards like rockfall.

The mountain's name is shared with the nearby Col du Galibier, which has achieved legendary status as a regular and formidable climb in the Tour de France, featured in epic stages won by champions like Fausto Coppi and Marco Pantani. Its imposing silhouette has made it a subject for photographers and painters associated with the Hudson River School who visited the Alps. While less frequented in mainstream cinema than Mont Blanc, the peak and its surroundings have appeared in French documentaries and films about the Dauphiné Alps produced by *Géo* television.

Category:Mountains of the Alps Category:Mountains of Hautes-Alpes Category:Mountains of Savoie Category:Alpine three-thousanders